Above Boumalne, the Dades Gorge starts to show what it is made of. The road follows the river upstream, squeezed between towering cliffs of red and ochre rock that have been worn into odd shapes, and the valley floor is a ribbon of green, palms, fields and small villages, in contrast to the dry mountains around. Around here lie the rock formations that visitors call monkey fingers, a row of eroded pillars that stand above the road like giant knuckles.
The riding is a delight. The road is narrow but surfaced, with gentle curves and gradual climbs, passing through villages with mud-brick houses and kasbahs. Traffic is moderate, with the usual mix of minibuses, trucks, donkeys and pedestrians, so stay alert, particularly in the villages, where children and animals may be on the road. The best light for photographs comes in the early morning or late afternoon, when the cliffs glow, and for riders the temperatures at those times are also more comfortable.
The geology is spectacular. The cliffs are made of red sandstone, limestone and conglomerate, laid down in ancient seas and rivers and uplifted when the Atlas Mountains formed. Erosion by water and wind has carved fantastic shapes, arches, columns and balanced rocks, and the colours change through the day, from pink at dawn to deep red at dusk. After rain, which is rare, the river runs brown and fast, and flash floods can sweep through the gorge, so check the weather if storms are forecast.
Small guesthouses and cafes line the road, many with terraces overlooking the valley, and a glass of mint tea or a simple lunch of tagine or omelette is easy to find. Prices are modest, and the owners are generally welcoming. Haggling is not needed for food, though it is common for souvenirs and local crafts.
Fuel is not available in the gorge itself, so make sure you have enough from Boumalne Dades or Tinghir. The nearest larger town is Kelaat M'Gouna, about twenty kilometres from here, and it has fuel and services. Carry water, sun protection and a spare layer, and take your time, since the road invites you to stop often.