Boumalne Dades sits at the mouth of the Dades Gorge, a dusty crossroads town on the road between Ouarzazate and Tinghir, and it is the gateway to one of the most scenic valleys in southern Morocco. The town itself is plain, with a long main street, a market, cafes and shops, but its position, with the High Atlas on one side and the Jbel Saghro on the other, makes it a natural base for riders.
The town is also a service point. Fuel is available, and there are cash machines, small supermarkets and workshops, which is important because the roads beyond lead into the mountains and services thin out. Fill the tank, buy water and snacks and check your tyres before heading up the gorge. The nearest larger town, Kelaat M'Gouna, lies to the south-west and is famous for its roses, grown in the valley and harvested each spring, when a festival celebrates the crop and rose water and oil are sold everywhere.
The ride to the gorge begins on a good road through a green strip of date palms and fields along the river, with ochre cliffs on either side. The tarmac is mostly smooth, with some patches and occasional sand or gravel. Traffic is lighter than on the main N10, but you will meet trucks, minibuses, donkey carts and goats. Speed limits are low in villages, and police radar is common, so keep to the signs.
The valley is lined with kasbahs, some in good repair and others slowly dissolving into the earth, built of rammed clay that melts back into the landscape after a few generations without maintenance. The Amazigh families who live here still farm the narrow terraces, growing barley, almonds and walnuts, and keep sheep and goats on the hills. The light in the late afternoon turns the cliffs a deep red.
Summer is very hot, often above forty degrees, and winter nights are cold, with occasional snow on the high ground. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild temperatures, clear skies and green fields. Carry sun protection, water and a layer for the evening, and be ready for wind, which can pick up in the afternoon and carry dust across the road.