The Someș is the river of northern Transylvania, gathering its waters in the mountains and winding west through a broad, green valley towards Hungary. Around Rus and Ileanda, in the northeast of Sălaj county, the valley narrows between wooded hills, and the villages cling to the slopes above the river. Dăbâceni and the ridge called Coama Pietrar lie in this landscape, one of many recorded archaeological sites in the area, and like most of them it is more about the setting than about visible remains.
This part of Romania feels remote, even though it is not far from Cluj or Baia Mare. The villages are small and traditional, with wooden gates, haystacks and orchards of plums and apples. Many people still farm the land in the old way, with horses and hand tools, and the pace of life is slow. Ileanda has a small monastery and a few shops.
The area also carries painful memories. In September 1940, after northern Transylvania was transferred to Hungary, troops carried out a massacre in the nearby village of Treznea, killing dozens of Romanian villagers. A memorial stands there today. The history of this region is complex, with Romanians, Hungarians, Germans and Jews living side by side for centuries, and the scars of the twentieth century run deep.
The riding follows the Someș valley, with the road and railway sharing the narrow space between the river and the hills. It is a pleasant, winding road, with gentle bends and views of the water. Side roads climb into the hills, narrow and steep, with rough surfaces and spectacular views over the valley. To the north rise the Țibleș mountains, wilder and higher, with forests and few roads. Traffic is light, but watch for logging trucks, horse-drawn carts and livestock.
The nearest towns with full services are Dej, to the east, and Jibou, to the west, both with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. The villages have small shops and bars where you can get a coffee or a cold drink. The weather is continental, with hot summers and cold, snowy winters. Spring brings blossom to the orchards, and autumn turns the hills gold and red. Slow down, enjoy the river, and wave to the people sitting outside their gates; they will wave back.