Da Nang is a port city on Vietnam's central coast, with a long beach, a wide river and a skyline that has changed dramatically in a generation. Where fishing boats and a French colonial quarter once stood, towers and bridges now line the Han River, and the Dragon Bridge, opened in 2013, spans the water in the shape of a golden dragon that breathes fire and water on weekend evenings. Behind the city, the green mass of the Son Tra peninsula rises above the sea.
The city has a long past as a trading port, and it was the site of a major American air base during the war. Older still is the Cham heritage, and the Museum of Cham Sculpture holds the world's largest collection of Cham art, with carved sandstone figures of gods, dancers and animals from the temples scattered across central Vietnam. South of the city the Marble Mountains, five limestone and marble hills, hold caves with Buddhist shrines and a stone-carving village at their feet.
From here the ride to My Son takes you inland through the Quang Nam countryside, past Hoi An's outskirts and into the farmland of the Thu Bon river valley, where rice, water buffalo and roadside stalls fill the view. North of the city lies the Hai Van Pass, a famous coastal road over a spur of mountains, with sea views and old French fortifications at the top, though most traffic now uses the tunnel beneath. Roads in the region are busy, so watch for scooters, trucks and sudden stops. Surfaces are generally good. The dry season, from about February to August, is best; typhoons can strike between September and November.
Da Nang has fuel everywhere, repair shops, hotels at all prices and good food. Try mi quang, a turmeric noodle dish topped with peanuts and herbs, or banh xeo, crisp pancakes wrapped in leaves. Traffic in the city is chaotic but moves at a manageable pace, and parking for bikes is easy. Start early to avoid the heat and the midday rush, and plan your return before dark.