Czorsztyn is a small village on the shore of Lake Czorsztyn, a reservoir in the Pieniny and the Spisz region of southern Poland, and it is dominated by the ruins of a castle on a rocky hill. The castle, first built in the fourteenth century, guarded the border between Poland and Hungary, and its twin, Niedzica Castle, stands on the opposite shore, in what was once Hungary. The two fortresses face each other across the water, which was created in the 1990s by damming the Dunajec river, and the lake covers parts of old villages. Niedzica, Kluszkowce and Krośnica are the nearest settlements, each a few kilometres away.
The legend of Niedzica involves an Inca treasure, supposedly hidden here by a descendant of the Inca after the Spanish conquest, and a quipu, a knotted-string record, was reportedly found in the castle in the 1940s. Historians are doubtful, but the story persists. The ruins of Czorsztyn Castle can be climbed, and the view from the tower takes in the lake, the Pieniny hills and, on a clear day, the High Tatras to the south, with their sharp, grey peaks.
The Tatra foothills road is a pleasure for riders: gentle curves, small hills, villages with wooden houses and haystacks, and views of the mountains. The surface is generally good, with a few patchy stretches, and traffic is moderate, except at weekends in summer, when families head for the lake and the Tatras. The road passes through the Podhale region, home to the Górale, the highlanders, who keep their own customs, music, dress and dialect. Wooden churches with shingled roofs and painted barns appear along the way.
Nearby, the Dunajec Gorge in the Pieniny National Park is famous for its rafting trips, in which local men in traditional costume steer wooden rafts through the limestone canyon. The cheese oscypek, a smoked sheep's cheese, is sold at roadside stalls and is a speciality of the highlands, usually grilled and served with cranberry jam. Fuel and food can be found in Nowy Targ and Zakopane, and small cafes by the lake serve coffee and cake. Early morning, with mist over the water and the castle emerging, is the best moment.