Cusco sits at about 3,400 metres in a high Andean valley, and the first thing it asks of you is patience. The air is thin, so even a short walk uphill can leave you breathless, and visitors from sea level often feel it as a headache or a strange tightness for a day or two. Locals will offer you coca tea, which helps a little; rest, water and a light dinner help more. On a motorcycle, thin air also saps engine power, a carburetted bike may run rich and a fuel-injected one will cope better, so do not be surprised if your machine feels a little tired.
This was the capital of the Inca Empire, and the Spanish who took it in 1533 built their city directly on top of the old one. Walk the lanes and you will see Inca stonework, fitted without mortar, used as foundations for colonial churches and houses. The walls survive because they flex in earthquakes, and when quakes hit in 1650 and 1950 the Spanish arches fell while many Inca courses stayed put. Above the city, the huge zigzag walls of Sacsayhuamán look down from the hillside, and if you have time they are worth a visit.
Cusco is the start of the Sacred Valley route, which runs northwest toward Pisac, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo along the Urubamba river, with good tarmac, long curves, farmland and high peaks beyond. Traffic in the city is chaotic, with minibuses, taxis, tuk-tuks and a lot of horn, and the narrow streets of the centre are steep and sometimes stepped. Take it slowly and stay alert, especially after rain, when stone surfaces are polished and treacherous.
Fuel is easy in town, where stations are common on the main avenues, and you should top up before heading out because supplies thin in rural districts. Food is a joy: try roast guinea pig if you are curious, but also quinoa soup, grilled trout and alpaca steaks, followed by a hot chocolate in one of the cafés near the main square.
The dry season, from May to September, offers clear skies and cold nights, while the rainy months of December to March bring green hills and landslides that can block roads.