The title of this stop is a UNESCO phrase, the Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley, inscribed in 2003, and it covers more ground than most visitors expect. The Bamiyan valley is a long, narrow strip of green along a river, hemmed in by a high cliff of sandstone and conglomerate, and the listing takes in the Buddhist niches and caves, the ruined citadels of Shahr-i-Zohak and Shahr-i-Ghulghulah, the side valleys with their smaller shrines, and the monastic settlements that spread along the cliffs. In total, hundreds of caves were cut by monks between about the fifth and ninth centuries.
At the centre are the two niches that once held the colossal Buddhas, the larger about 55 metres tall and the smaller about 38, carved from the cliff and plastered, painted and gilded in antiquity. The Taliban destroyed them in March 2001, and the world was shocked. The empty recesses still tower above the valley, and international teams have since stabilised the rock and studied what remains, including fragments of the statues and wall paintings in the caves.
The valley's location explains its importance. It lies on a branch of the Silk Road where routes from India, Central Asia and Persia met, and the monks lived off pilgrims and merchants. Genghis Khan's army swept through in 1221, and the valley never fully recovered its former prominence. Today it is home to the Hazara people, who farm potatoes and wheat in terraces and keep sheep in the high pastures. The lakes of Band-e Amir, a chain of deep blue water, lie a few hours west.
Getting here from Kabul takes a long day on mountain roads with high passes, and surfaces vary from smooth to rough. Any travel plan needs up-to-date security advice, and conditions can change quickly. In the valley, cars and motorcycles are scarce, and the bazaar in Bamiyan town, about three kilometres off, is the place for tea, bread and supplies. Fuel is limited, so carry extra. Mornings are bright and cold, and the cliff glows orange as the sun climbs. Stay on cleared paths and respect local customs.