Cully is a wine village on the shore of Lake Geneva, and the whole place seems to be organised around the tasting of Chasselas. Narrow streets run down between old stone houses to a small harbour, a lakeside promenade and a pebble beach, and behind the village the terraced vineyards climb the slope. It is a quiet and civilised little place, and the cellars, or caveaux, that open their doors to visitors are the heart of the social life.
The village is famous for its jazz festival, held each spring, when the streets and cellars fill with musicians and listeners, and when the population swells for a week or so. It began modestly in the 1980s and has grown into one of the best-known festivals in Switzerland, held in the village hall, in bars and in the cellars of the vignerons. Outside festival time, it is quiet, with a few cafes, an excellent bakery and a restaurant or two serving fish from the lake, perch fillets with fries being the classic.
The surrounding landscape is the heart of Lavaux, the long terraced slope that runs for about thirty kilometres along the north shore of the lake. The walls that hold up the terraces were built by monks, from the eleventh century onwards, and are in constant need of repair, as rain and frost loosen the stones. The vineyards face south and receive light three times: from the sun above, from the reflection of the lake, and from the heat stored in the walls. That unusual combination, locals say, is the secret of the wine.
The road above the village, the Corniche, is the best way to ride the region, a tight, winding lane through the vines with lake views at nearly every bend. Parking in the village itself is limited, and it is best to leave the bike near the station or the harbour. In the early morning in May or September, with mist on the lake and the Alps standing across the water, it is magical. In the middle of a summer weekend it is crowded.
Cully has a few shops and a small supermarket but no large fuel station, so it is best to top up in Lutry, about four kilometres to the west, or in Vevey. If you plan to taste wine, remember that the Swiss limit for alcohol is low and enforcement is strict, so a sip and a spit is wiser than a glass, and you can always buy a bottle to take away.