The Sierra de Guara, in the province of Huesca, is a limestone range riddled with canyons, and the river Vero cuts one of the most beautiful of them, a deep, narrow gorge of grey and ochre cliffs where vultures nest and the water runs clear over pale stones. Along its walls, prehistoric people left paintings in dozens of rock shelters, and the Cueva Peña Miel I is one of them, part of the UNESCO listing of rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. The Río Vero Cultural Park protects the area, with an interpretation centre in Colungo and guided visits to some of the shelters.
Alquézar, perched on a crag above the Vero canyon, is one of the most striking villages in Spain, with a collegiate church and castle at the top, built on the site of a Moorish fortress, and steep streets winding down to the river. A walkway along the cliffs below the village offers spectacular views of the gorge. The Sierra de Guara is one of Europe's best-known canyoning destinations, and in summer groups in wetsuits can be seen jumping into pools and abseiling down waterfalls. Around it, the Somontano wine region produces fine reds and whites, with modern wineries among the vineyards near Barbastro.
The riding in this area is superb. Roads climb from the Somontano plains into the sierra, with tight bends, narrow sections and wonderful views of the canyons and the Pyrenees beyond. Routes towards Aínsa and the high Pyrenees pass through gorges and over passes, while others link small villages of stone houses, many partly abandoned. Expect gravel on some corners, livestock, and in summer, more traffic around Alquézar. Winters can bring snow on the higher roads.
Fuel is available in Barbastro and in Aínsa, while small villages may have limited or no services. Alquézar has bars and restaurants, and Barbastro has plenty of choice. Local cuisine includes ternasco, roast lamb, and dishes with mushrooms and game. Try a glass of Somontano wine, ideally at the end of the day. Bring sturdy shoes and water for walks to the rock shelters, which often involve steep paths.