Ayna is a village of white houses clinging to the walls of a deep gorge carved by the Mundo river, in the Sierra de Alcaraz in the southwest of Albacete province. Its setting is so dramatic that it is sometimes called the Little Switzerland of La Mancha, and it was the backdrop for the cult Spanish film Amanece, que no es poco, a surreal comedy shot here in the late 1980s. A few kilometres away, in a rocky ravine, the Cueva del Niño holds something rare for this part of Spain: Palaeolithic paintings of deer, ibex and horses, much older than the Levantine figures painted later on the same walls. It is part of the UNESCO listing of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula, and access is restricted to protect the paintings.
The Mundo river rises not far away, near Riópar, where it bursts out of a cave in a series of waterfalls called Los Chorros, spectacular after the spring rains. The sierra is covered in pine and oak forests, with limestone cliffs, gorges and caves, and it is home to ibex, deer, eagles and vultures. The air is fresh and fragrant with pine and wild herbs.
The riding is excellent, with winding roads through the mountains and gorges, steep climbs and descents, and very little traffic. The road into Ayna from the plain is a series of hairpins down into the gorge, with stunning views. The roads to Bogarra, Molinicos and Riópar follow river valleys and climb over passes, with tight curves and changing surfaces. Watch for gravel, fallen rocks and animals on the road. The weather is continental: hot in summer, cold in winter, with snow possible on the higher roads.
Ayna and Bogarra are small villages with bars and restaurants, but fuel is scarce, so fill up in Hellín, about forty kilometres away, or in Albacete. Try gazpacho manchego, a hearty stew of game meat and flatbread, or atascaburras, a mash of potatoes, salt cod and garlic. The local olive oil and cheese are excellent, and the honey from the sierra is delicious.