The border between Albacete and Murcia runs through a tangle of mountains here, and the villages of Socovos, Férez and Letur sit among them like small islands. The Cueva del Esquilo is one of the painted rock shelters in these hills, a reminder that people lived and hunted in the Segura mountains thousands of years before any border existed. Like most of the rock art in the region, it is protected and best visited with local guidance; the town halls and tourist offices of the surrounding villages are the place to ask.
Letur is the jewel of the area: a village of Moorish origin, built on a rock above a gorge, with narrow lanes, arches and water channels that still carry springs through the streets. Socovos has the ruins of a castle that belonged to the Order of Santiago, which held much of this frontier land after the Christian conquest in the thirteenth century. The Segura river and its reservoirs lie to the north and east, and the Cenajo reservoir, a long blue lake among pine forests, is a fine sight from the road.
The roads here twist through pine covered mountains and deep valleys with very little traffic. Some sections are narrow and steep, others wide and flowing. The route from Moratalla toward Socovos and Letur is particularly good, with views over the mountains and valleys. Watch for gravel, especially after storms, and for animals on the road. Weather can change quickly, and in winter the higher roads can be icy.
Moratalla, sixteen kilometres away in Murcia, is the nearest town of size, with fuel, food and lodging, and a castle above its old streets. Calasparra, further east, is known for its rice, grown in terraced paddies along the Segura and protected by its own denomination; a rice dish here is a must. In the villages, expect simple bars and restaurants with local food, including lamb, game and stews. April, May and October bring the kindest weather, with green slopes and cool mornings.