This is the country of the upper Segura, where Albacete and Murcia meet, and it is among the least visited corners of southern Spain. The river cuts through limestone sierras, with pine forests, reedy banks and small terraced fields where almond and olive trees grow, and the villages, Socovos and Férez among them, are small, white and quiet. The scale of the land is bigger than its population, and in summer the cicadas are the loudest thing you will hear.
The caves and shelters of this region contain remarkable prehistoric art. Rock paintings in red and black, small figures of hunters, archers and animals in motion, are scattered through the ravines, and the area around Moratalla and Nerpio has some of the densest concentrations in the whole of the Levantine tradition. The paintings are thousands of years old, and UNESCO has recognised them as a group, listed in 1998 as the rock art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Access to individual shelters is usually restricted, so ask at the visitor centre in Moratalla, which can tell you what is open, and never touch the paintings.
Moratalla itself, 14 km away, has about 8,500 people, a castle above the town and a tradition that surprises visitors: during Holy Week the townspeople beat drums day and night in a thundering procession called the Tamborada. It is the nearest sizeable place for fuel, food and rooms. Beyond it, roads wind through the sierras on twisty surfaces, with long climbs and some rough patches, and the nearest alternative fuel can be far, so keep the tank topped up.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, as summer temperatures often pass 40 degrees and winter nights can bring frost. Take plenty of water and a map, since signal is weak in the valleys. The landscape has the dry, aromatic smell of rosemary and thyme, and the stars at night are exceptional. Local food includes migas, fried breadcrumbs with chorizo, and gachasmigas, a hearty winter dish, with a glass of the strong local wine. It is a place for those who like silence, and the road rewards patience.