Cehegín's old town rises in a tight cluster of ochre houses and church towers on a hill above the Argos river, in the northwest of Murcia, and it is one of the best-preserved historic centres in the region, with narrow streets, noble houses and churches dating back to the sixteenth century. The Cueva de las Conchas, the cave of the shells, lies less than a kilometre from the town, and it is part of the rich network of prehistoric sites in this area, included in the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean rock art.
Just a few kilometres away, Caravaca de la Cruz is one of the holy cities of Catholicism, thanks to a relic of the True Cross kept in the sanctuary-castle at the top of the town, and every few years it celebrates a jubilee year that draws pilgrims from all over the world. In early May, the town celebrates the festival of the wine horses, where teams of men run up the steep streets to the castle alongside richly decorated horses, a spectacle unique in Spain.
The riding in northwest Murcia is excellent and underrated. The roads from Cehegín toward Calasparra, famous for its rice grown along the Segura, or west toward Moratalla and the Sierra de Segura, wind through hills, river valleys and pine forests, with very little traffic. The Gran Vía del Noroeste, a fast road, links the area with Murcia city, but the minor roads are where the fun is. The climate is dry and hot in summer, with cold nights in winter; spring and autumn are ideal, and almond blossom in February is spectacular.
Cehegín has fuel, shops and restaurants, and Caravaca, about five kilometres away, has more services. Local food is hearty and delicious: arroz con conejo y caracoles, rice with rabbit and snails, migas, and the sweet yemas de Caravaca, made with egg yolk and sugar. The Bullas wine region, a short ride east, produces robust reds from the Monastrell grape.