Bicorp is a small village in the folds of the Valencian interior, west of Xàtiva, in a country of pine, scrub and deep ravines that falls towards the Júcar and the Sierra de Martés. The Cueva de la Araña, the Spider Cave, is one of the most famous rock art sites in Spain, and the main reason to come. In its shelter is a painted scene of a figure climbing a rope or ladder of plant fibre to collect honey from a wild hive, with bees flying around. It is thought to be several thousand years old, and it is one of the finest and most human images of the Levantine rock art, listed by UNESCO in 1998.
The honey gatherer gives the place a charm that survives the distance of time. You can picture the person on the rope, the smoke, the hum of the bees, and the cliff behind. The country is still full of wild bees, and thyme and rosemary honey is sold in the villages. The landscape is rugged and quiet, a mix of limestone gorges, pine forest and terraced fields, with eagles overhead and wild boar in the woods. The smell, especially on warm days, is of resin and herbs.
Riding in the hinterland of Valencia is a joy, with narrow roads that wind through the mountains with a good succession of bends, climb to viewpoints over wooded valleys and descend to small villages. Traffic is almost nonexistent, and the surface is mostly fair, though minor roads may be rough. The shelter itself is reached by a walk, and regulations are in force, so enquire in advance. In summer the heat is strong, and the early morning is the best time.
Carry water, particularly in summer. A plate of rice with rabbit and snails, the traditional dish of the area, is a fine reward after a day on the road. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild days and clear light.