Sierra Morena is the long, dark range that separates the plains of La Mancha from the valley of the Guadalquivir, and the high-road gateway between them is the gorge of Despeñaperros, a few kilometres to the east of Aldeaquemada. The name means something like the pass where dogs are thrown off the cliff, which tells you how the Castilians felt about it. The Cueva de Apolinario is a rock shelter in these hills, and belongs to the painted shelters of the Sierra Morena, with figures that experts date back several thousand years. The area also holds the rock art of the Mediterranean Basin, as protected by UNESCO.
The landscape is rough, wild and beautiful, a mix of holm oak and cork oak woodland, scrub of rock rose and lavender, and rocky outcrops. It is a refuge of the Iberian lynx, one of the rarest cats in the world, which has been reintroduced in the area, and the area is also known for its deer, wild boar and black vultures. The rivers run clear in spring, and the light on the hills is soft and gold in the evening.
For a rider, the Sierra Morena is a delight. Roads wind through the oak forest with a good succession of curves, climb to passes with long views, and drop into valleys with small villages. Traffic is thin, and the surface is generally fair, though the roads near the main route are busier, with lorries. In summer the heat is intense, and in winter fog and frost are possible on the higher ground.
Aldeaquemada is a village of only five hundred people, with limited facilities, and the nearest towns of any size are Castellar de Santiago and Torrenueva, both of which have petrol. Úbeda and Baeza, a long ride south, are the famous Renaissance towns of Jaén, listed by UNESCO and a splendid place to end the day. Try the local game stew and the olive oil, which is among the best in Spain. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the hills are full of flowers in April.