The Cruz del Cóndor is a viewpoint on the rim of the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world, which reaches more than three thousand metres at its deepest, with the river more than a kilometre below the rail, and it is the best place in Peru to see the Andean condor in flight. The birds, with wingspans of up to three metres, rise on the warm air currents that build as the sun heats the canyon walls, usually between about eight and ten in the morning. They glide past at eye level, often only a few metres from the rail, and the silence of their flight is eerie. Arrive early, since the show is over by late morning, and the crowd of visitors is smaller if you are there at first light.
The canyon is also a landscape shaped by people. Terraces, built before the Incas, step down the slopes, and the villages, with their churches and fields, preserve the traditions of the Collagua and Cabana peoples, who still wear embroidered hats and clothing. The Colca river runs at the bottom, a thin line of white water, and the walls are a patchwork of green terraces and brown rock. The sky is large, the air thin and the sun fierce, and a cold wind blows in the morning.
The ride along the canyon is a fine one, though it has its challenges. The road from Chivay follows the canyon rim through villages, with bends, bumps, and a mix of paved and gravel sections. Altitude is the main issue, since Chivay sits at about 3,600 metres, and the viewpoint is higher still, so give yourself time to adjust, and do not hurry. Keep an eye on the weather, and carry warm clothing. Livestock and children may be on the road in the villages, so slow down.
Chivay, about an hour away, is the nearest town, with fuel, shops, restaurants and hot springs, and it is the best place to base yourself. Women in traditional dress sell handicrafts and snacks near the rail, and a small tip for a photograph is customary. Respect the birds by staying behind the barriers and keeping quiet, and the condors may give you a show you will not forget.