The Crown Range summit reaches 1,121 metres, which makes this the highest paved main road in New Zealand, and it earns the title with a steep, twisting climb out of the Wakatipu basin. From the lookout at the top, the whole country seems to fall away: to the south, the Wakatipu basin and the jagged line of the Remarkables, and to the north the bare brown folds of the Cardrona valley, with Wanaka's lake beyond. The land is tussock and rock, treeless and bleached by wind, and the sky is enormous. Snow lies on the tops from May to October, and sometimes lingers into December.
On the Queenstown side, the road climbs in a famous series of hairpins known as the Zigzag, and a viewing area gives you a place to stop and look back at the road you have just climbed. The bends are tight, with a good surface and clear signs, and the gradient is steady. Going up, the temperature drops, and the wind picks up, and you feel the weather change. On the far side, the road falls more gently towards Cardrona, in long, open bends with views across the valley. It is a very satisfying ride, whichever way you do it.
The road is worth a little caution. In winter it can be snowy or icy, chains are often required, and the road is closed in bad conditions, so check the road status before you go. Even in summer, a cold wind can make a bright day feel raw, and mist can drop on the top without warning. Take warm layers, whatever the forecast says. The road is narrow in places, and tour buses and camper vans use it in numbers, so be patient and watch your mirrors.
Gold miners opened the first tracks over the range in the 1860s, and the pass was an important link between the Queenstown goldfields and the Cardrona and Wanaka areas. The modern road is now a popular scenic route as well as a commuter road for those who live in Wanaka and work in Queenstown. There is a car park and a lookout, but no café or toilet. Bring a flask and enjoy the view.