Arrowtown is the sort of place that tells the story of the Otago gold rush in a few short streets. It sits a few kilometres from this point, on the Arrow River, where gold was found in 1862, and within a year or two thousands of men had descended on the valley. The little town that remained is a collection of stone and timber cottages, shops and a main street shaded by deciduous trees, which in autumn blaze yellow and red.
The most interesting corner is the Chinese settlement beside the river. When the first rush faded, the provincial government invited Chinese miners to rework the claims, and they lived here in rough huts built into the rock, working claims that Europeans had abandoned. Several of the stone huts have been restored, and a shop with a store room still stands. It is a quiet and rather moving place, and it is a reminder of how much hardship was involved.
The surrounding landscape is schist hills, tussock and orchards, with the Crown Range rising to the east. The road from Arrowtown to Cardrona climbs the Crown Terrace and then up to the summit by a series of hairpins that locals call the Zig Zag, with gravel on the edges and long drops to the side. Views over the Wakatipu basin are broad and impressive. At the top, the car park is often crowded with people taking photographs, and the wind can be sharp even in summer. In winter ice and snow can close the road.
Riding down the other side towards Cardrona and Wānaka is a delight, with open bends and clear views of the valley and the mountains beyond. Be careful of oncoming traffic, because the road is narrow and winding, and drivers sometimes cut corners. The road surface is good but may be damp in shaded sections. Livestock is a hazard on the lower stretches.
For fuel, the safest option is Queenstown, about nineteen kilometres away, since Arrowtown itself is small and services are limited. Arrowtown has bakeries and cafes, and the tree-lined main street makes a pleasant place for lunch. Autumn, from late April to May, is the glory time, but it is crowded.
Walk along the river path at dusk when the day-trippers have gone. The gold-rush ghosts feel closer then.