Covilhã clings to the steep eastern flank of the Serra da Estrela, so much so that its streets seem to be climbing the mountain one stair at a time. It is Portugal's highest-lying city of any size, a place where the air changes noticeably as you ride up from the plains of the Beira Baixa. The town is the starting point for the road up to the Torre, the highest point in mainland Portugal at around 1,993 metres, and a good place to prepare.
Wool made this town. For centuries Covilhã's sheep, mountain water and fast streams fed a textile industry, and in the eighteenth century the Marquis of Pombal established a royal cloth factory here. Many of the old mills still stand, tall brick and stone buildings stepping down the hillside, and some now house the university. The town has also become known for its street art, with large murals painted on walls throughout the old quarters, a modern note against the granite.
The road toward the summit climbs steadily through pine, broom and heather, then bursts out into a high plateau of rounded granite boulders, glacial valleys and small lakes. It is not a hard road, but the weather is the issue. Mist, strong wind and sudden cold are common, and snow can close sections from late autumn to spring, so check the forecast. Winter brings skiers to the slopes near Penhas da Saúde, which gives the upper road an alpine feel, with trucks and buses mixing with cars.
For food, Covilhã does the sort of generous mountain cooking you want after a ride, hearty stews, cured sausages, and the creamy Serra da Estrela cheese, made from sheep's milk and eaten with a spoon when ripe. The nearby Cova da Beira is also known for its cherries, which are celebrated in early summer. Fuel, supermarkets and every kind of service are in town, so fill up before heading upland, as the mountain roads have little.
Manteigas, in a glacial valley on the western side, is the sweetest village to head for next. Late spring and early autumn offer the best combination of clear air and comfortable temperatures, while summer afternoons can be hot in town and cool at the top.