Albocàsser is a small town in the dry highlands of the Alt Maestrat, and the Covetes del Puntal, the Little Caves of the Peak, lie about six kilometres from it in the ravines of the same name. Abric V is one of at least five painted shelters that bear the name, and they all belong to the Levantine tradition, protected by UNESCO as part of the rock art of the Mediterranean basin in Spain. Nobody will hand you a leaflet explaining what is on this wall, so allow yourself to enjoy the not-knowing, and the walk.
The ravines here have a particular character. The limestone is pale and smooth, and the ground is covered by pine, juniper, holm oak and a thick undergrowth of rosemary and rockrose. In spring, flowers cover the slopes in yellow and purple, and in early summer the air is full of the buzzing of bees, which is fitting, given that honey-gathering is one of the oldest activities depicted in Spanish rock art. Dry-stone walls, field huts and old threshing floors dot the countryside, evidence of centuries of farming.
The roads to the area are narrow and winding, and many are lightly surfaced, with gravel patches and the occasional pothole. Corners tend to be blind and tight. Navigation can be tricky, since signs are sparse and phone signal may drop. A gentle pace is the right one, partly because you will want to look around, and partly because a farm vehicle or flock of sheep may appear around any bend.
Fuel is not available in the small villages, so fill up in Alcalà de Xivert on the plain, or in one of the larger towns near the coast, before heading inland. Albocàsser itself has a few bars where you can get coffee and a bocadillo, and Les Coves de Vinromà, about nine kilometres away, has more services. Take plenty of water, sun cream and a hat, particularly in summer.