Think of the Coves del Civil, also called Ribasals, as a series of upturned bowls in a limestone wall. Abric II is the second shelter in the sequence, a little under six kilometres from the village of Albocàsser, tucked into a rocky ravine of the Maestrat. The wall above is pale and weathered, and the shelter faces east, so that it gets the early light. Its paintings are part of the Levantine art of the Spanish Mediterranean, protected by UNESCO since 1998, and are a short drive from the great Valltorta gorge.
Albocàsser is a small town with a Gothic church, and Catí, about eight kilometres off, is bigger and more handsome, with a medieval centre of stone arcades and a reputation for its cheese. The Maestrat itself is named for the Order of Montesa, a military order that held much of the district after the thirteenth century, and its old castles and fortified churches are scattered across hills that look much as they must have done in the Middle Ages. Stone-walled terraces step down the slopes, and on many hillsides you can see the ruins of masos, the isolated farmhouses of the region.
The ride here is a slow-burn affair. Bends are tight but short, with little distance between them, and the road surface varies from smooth modern asphalt to ancient patchwork. The light, especially in the early morning, is wonderful, picking out the lines of terraces and the shapes of the ridges. Sheep and goats still graze on the hillsides, and you may share a corner with a shepherd and his flock. Spring brings a profusion of wild flowers, and autumn a thin, clean air.
For fuel and a bigger shop, go to Alcalà de Xivert, nineteen kilometres away. Albocàsser and Catí have bars and small supermarkets, and a plate of grilled lamb or a wedge of cheese with honey is a satisfying lunch. Take water and a hat, since the sun reflects off the limestone, and do not expect any phone coverage in the ravine.