Somontano means under the mountain, and that is just what this district is: the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees below the Sierra de Guara, where the land opens from the stony gorges into a country of vineyards, almond groves and golden fields. The wine region of that name, around Barbastro, is one of the quiet success stories of Spanish viticulture, and its reds, whites and rosés are well worth carrying home. The Covacho de Labarta is six kilometres from Alquézar, in the hills that look down on the gorge of the Río Vero.
Riding here has an easy rhythm. The roads wind through vineyards and low hills, with views of the Pyrenees on clear days, and the bends are smooth and open. Surfaces are mostly excellent, and the traffic is light except on weekends in summer when canyoners and climbers come to the Guara. Early autumn, when the grapes are being picked and the light is golden, is the best time.
Barbastro, twenty-three kilometres away, is the sensible stop for fuel. It has a cathedral in late Gothic style, a long history, and a wide choice of restaurants. Torreciudad, a large hilltop shrine above a reservoir with a long view of the Pyrenees, lies well to the north and could be added for a longer day. Alquézar is a pleasure to wander through, with a collegiate church on a rock above the river, but it is a small village and you should not rely on pumps. Salas Altas and Angüés are smaller still.
The shelter is a small one, a covacho being a modest hollow, and its paintings belong to the tradition that spread across the Spanish Levant. Visitors should check locally before trying to reach it, and the information points in Alquézar are a good place to start. Take water for the walk, be mindful of the heat, and watch for griffon vultures, which nest on the cliffs above the Vero and are nearly always in the sky.