Every cyclist in Europe seems to know the Coll de Rates, and that is a good hint for motorcyclists too. The climb starts in Parcent, a few kilometres from the Cova del Mansano, and winds up the mountainside in a long sequence of smooth, well surfaced bends to a pass with a view over the whole Vall de Pop and the sea beyond. The rock shelter itself sits in the hills around Jalón, Alcalalí and Parcent, a short walk from the road, and its paintings belong to the same World Heritage group as the other Levantine shelters of the coast.
The Vall de Pop, also called the Jalón valley, is a broad valley of vineyards, almond and orange groves, between the mountains of the Marina Alta. Jalón, or Xaló in Valencian, is known for its wine cooperative and bodegas, selling local moscatel and red wines, and for its large Saturday market, a rastro where everything from antiques to vegetables changes hands. Alcalalí has a medieval tower in its centre, and Parcent is a quiet village at the foot of the Coll de Rates.
Riding here is a joy, but share the roads. The Coll de Rates and other climbs are full of cyclists, especially in winter, when professional teams train on the Costa Blanca. Take care on blind bends and give them room. Beyond the pass, the road continues to Tàrbena and on into the mountains toward Callosa d'en Sarrià and Guadalest, with more bends, views and quiet villages. The surfaces are generally excellent, and traffic is light outside the main valley.
Fuel is available in Jalón and in Benissa, nine kilometres away, a town of thirteen thousand with all services. Restaurants in the valley serve good local food, and the bodegas are worth a stop if you are not riding afterwards. Spring is the best time to visit, when the valley is green and flowers are blooming; summers are hot, but the mountain air is fresher than the coast.