The Vall d'Ebo is one of the quietest places in the Marina Alta, a high valley of fewer than four hundred people in the mountains behind Dénia, and the Cova Alta, the High Cave, stands above it on the slopes of the surrounding ridges. Castell de Castells is the nearest village, about three kilometres off, and Benimantell and Vall d'Ebo are the neighbours. The shelter carries painted figures in the Levantine style, protected with the rest of the region's rock art by UNESCO, and it is one of a group of caves that the rides tie together around the Port de Penàguila.
What strikes you here is how empty the land feels. The hills are steep, terraced in places with dry-stone walls, and clothed in pine, scrub and abandoned almond and olive groves. The villages are tiny, white-washed and mostly silent outside the weekend. Near Vall d'Ebo is one of the best-known walks in the region, the Barranc de l'Infern, a spectacular gorge reached by thousands of old stone steps cut by farmers who once used them to reach their fields. It is a reminder of how hard people worked this land.
The ride into the high valleys is a real pleasure. The roads climb steeply from the coast in tight turns, with big drop-offs and views over the Mediterranean, then run along ridges with long, flowing bends. They are narrow and rarely busy, but they can be rough in places, with broken edges and rubble after storms. Watch for goats, cyclists and the occasional tractor. The best seasons are spring and autumn. Summer brings intense heat, and winter evenings can be cold and misty on the ridges.
There is no reason to hope for fuel in Vall d'Ebo, Castell de Castells or Benimantell, which are all very small. Plan to fill up on the coast, in Pego or in one of the larger towns of the Guadalest valley, and carry water. The final approach to the shelter is on foot, so wear sturdy shoes, and pause on the way up to look back at the valley.