The Dacians built their strongholds high in the Orăștie mountains, and the fortress of Costești-Cetățuie was one of the gateways to their heartland. Standing on a steep hill above the valley of the Grădiștea river, it was protected by walls built in the Dacian style, the murus dacicus, with large cut stone blocks bound by timber beams, and by earthen ramparts and palisades. It guarded the road up the valley to Sarmizegetusa Regia, the capital of King Decebalus, which the Romans captured in the wars of 101 to 106 that turned Dacia into a province. The fortresses of the Orăștie mountains are listed together by UNESCO.
The valley is quiet and green, with beech forests, meadows and scattered farms, and the villages of Orăștioara de Sus and Costești sit at its mouth. Up the valley, the road climbs toward Sarmizegetusa Regia, a sacred precinct with circular and rectangular sanctuaries made of andesite and limestone, set in the forest at around a thousand metres. The site is atmospheric and mysterious, especially in the morning mist, and it has become a place of pilgrimage for Romanians interested in their Dacian roots.
The riding is enjoyable. The road from Orăștie up the Grădiștea valley is narrow and twisty, with forests and the river beside it, and it has been improved in recent years, though the upper part can be rough. The surrounding hills offer quiet roads with curves and views, and further south, the Șureanu mountains and the Transalpina road, one of the highest in Romania, are within reach. Weather in the mountains is unpredictable, with summer storms and snow in winter. Watch for potholes, gravel and logging trucks.
The villages near the fortress have small shops and guesthouses, but for reliable fuel, Orăștie or Călan are the safe choices. What lands on the table here is Transylvanian, with soups, polenta, cheese and grilled meats. Guesthouses serve home-cooked meals with local ingredients. Climb to the fortress on foot, a steep but short walk, and look down the valley; this was the front door of the Dacian kingdom, and its guards would have seen any army coming from far away.