Corvara is the heart of Alta Badia, a village of tall chalets and church spire in a bowl of meadows with the Sella massif looming to the south and the Puez-Odle range to the north. It is one of the most popular ski resorts in the Dolomites and, in summer, one of the best bases for riders, because four passes meet within a short ride. It is also the start and finish of the Maratona dles Dolomites, a famous one-day cycling event, and on race weekends the whole village fills with cyclists in bright kit. Ladin is the local language, and signs are often in three languages, which gives the place a distinctive, mixed identity.
The riding around Corvara is as good as it gets for a lover of mountain roads. Heading south-west, the road climbs to Passo Campolongo, while to the north-west it climbs to Passo Gardena, and farther on lie the Pordoi and Sella. The surfaces are excellent, the bends well-engineered, and the views of the rock walls are constant. In summer the roads are busy, particularly on weekends and in August, so early starts and weekdays make life easier. Afternoon storms are a feature of the weather, building quickly in the heat, and the temperature at the passes can be much lower than in the valley.
The village is well provided with hotels, restaurants and shops, and the food is a happy mix of Tyrolean and Italian traditions, with dumplings, polenta and pasta all on the menu. Dolomite cooking is rich and filling, and after a day on the passes it is welcome. Pastries and good coffee are available at every turn. Fuel is available in the valley, and there are stations along the main road, but they are not everywhere, so it is best to fill before you set off on a long loop around the Sella.
Corvara also has a long history of mountain tourism, with the first ski lifts built in the early twentieth century, and the cable car to the high plateau of the Sella is a favourite with walkers. In summer, the meadows are full of wildflowers and the cow bells ring across the valley.
The best times to come are June, when the meadows are in bloom, and September, when the crowds have thinned and the air is crisp and clear.