Cork calls itself the real capital of Ireland and says so with a grin. The city began as a monastic settlement on marshy islands in the River Lee, and the centre still sits on an island between two channels, with bridges at every turn. It is Ireland's second city, but a proud and independent one, with its own accent and food and a long history of rebellion. The English Market, a covered food hall that has traded since the late eighteenth century, is the best place to see it, with butchers selling spiced beef and drisheen, a local blood pudding, fishmongers laying out the day's catch and bakers offering brown soda bread.
The city is dotted with churches. The tower of St Anne's at Shandon has bells that visitors can ring, and its weathervane is a golden salmon, while St Fin Barre's Cathedral is a French Gothic fantasy by William Burges that looks like it belongs in Paris. Seven kilometres to the north-west is Blarney Castle, where the famous stone is said to give the gift of eloquence to anyone who kisses it, and eastward the harbour town of Cobh was the last port of call for the Titanic and the place where survivors of the Lusitania were brought ashore.
For a rider, Cork is a fine start to the Wild Atlantic Way. Roads lead west through Bandon, Clonakilty and Skibbereen to the far south-west, with tight bends, small stone villages and wild peninsulas. The Healy Pass between Cork and Kerry is a narrow, winding road with hairpins and big views over Bantry Bay, and the road to Gougane Barra goes through a glaciated valley with a small chapel on a lake. Some of these roads are narrow and rough, with grass in the middle and walls close at the sides, so ride at a speed that lets you stop. Weather is changeable, often wet and windy, but the light after rain is wonderful.
Fuel and food are no trouble in a city of nearly two hundred thousand, with filling stations on every road out, and pubs serving Murphy's and Beamish stout. Leave the centre early to avoid the tunnel queues and the bridges at rush hour, and plan on a long day. Secure parking is available at many hotels, and the local people are generous with advice on where to ride.