Bahrain's pearl-diving history is the reason this scrap of coast matters. For centuries, before oil, the island's wealth came from the oyster beds in the shallow waters, and divers went out for months each summer, working with a nose clip, a stone weight and a basket. Pearls from these waters were prized from India to Europe. Then in the 1930s cultured pearls from Japan collapsed the market, and oil, struck in 1932, took over. The Pearling Path, a UNESCO listing since 2012, preserves buildings and sea sites connected with that older economy, including Fakhro House and the offshore oyster beds called Hayr Shtayyah.
This is a flat, low landscape of date palms, sandy shoreline and busy suburbs, with the sea glittering just beyond the last buildings. The oyster beds themselves lie out in the water and are not something you ride to, but the shoreline gives you a sense of the old geography.
Riding in Bahrain is straightforward. Roads are good, mostly dual carriageways, with roundabouts and flyovers, and the drivers are fast. Fuel is cheap and available everywhere, and Manama, about seven kilometres away, has everything from cafés to workshops. The King Fahd Causeway links Bahrain to Saudi Arabia, though border formalities are time consuming. Check the rules for entering with a motorcycle before you plan a crossing.
The cooler months from November to March are the time to come, with pleasant days and mild nights. Summer is brutal, with temperatures above forty-five degrees and thick humidity, and a ride in the afternoon is a bad idea. At dusk the call to prayer drifts over the water, and dhows and fishing boats come in as the sky turns orange. Try a Bahraini breakfast of balaleet, sweet vermicelli with eggs, and strong cardamom coffee.