Córdoba is Argentina's second city and its oldest university town, a sprawling, energetic place of about 1.4 million people on the edge of the Pampas, where the flat plains meet the first hills of the Sierras. It was founded in 1573 by Spanish settlers, and its colonial heart is among the best preserved in the country. The Jesuit Block, a group of churches, university buildings and a school that dates from the seventeenth century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the National University of Córdoba, founded in 1613, is one of the oldest in the Americas. The city is nicknamed La Docta, the learned, and the large student population gives it a lively, youthful feel.
For a rider, Córdoba is a big, busy urban centre with every service imaginable, so it is the place to fill up, repair and rest before heading into the hills. Traffic can be heavy, with fast, chaotic driving, and the streets are a maze of one-way systems, so take care and plan your route. The riverside, the old centre and the park are pleasant to walk in the evening, when the heat of the day fades. Fernet con coca, a mix of the bitter Italian liqueur and cola, is the city's unofficial drink, and you will see it in every bar.
The road west, the Camino de las Altas Cumbres, is the real draw. It climbs through the Sierras Grandes, passing from farmland and scrub to high grassland and rock, reaching over two thousand metres. The surface is paved and good, with long, graceful bends and wide views over the plains. Weather can change fast, with fog and cloud on the heights and sudden storms in summer, so carry a waterproof. Spring and autumn give the best conditions, with clear air and comfortable temperatures.
If you have time, wander through the old quarter, where the cathedral, with its mix of colonial and baroque features, and the Cabildo, the old town hall, face the main square. Look into the Jesuit church and the university library for a sense of the city's long intellectual history. Eat an empanada or a plate of locro, and take a seat in a cafe. It is a city with a lot of character, and it gives a good start to a ride into the mountains.