The Olt is the only river that cuts straight through the Carpathians, and the Romans knew it. Between Copaceni and Brezoi, the Olt runs in a deep gorge through the mountains between Transylvania and Wallachia, and the Roman army, after conquering Dacia in 106 AD, built a line of forts and watchtowers along its western bank to guard this key corridor. The Limes Alutanus, as it is known, ran from the Danube northwards along the river, and sites such as Praetorium and Arutela were links in the chain. Some are little more than grassy ramparts today, but they sit on strategic hills with views along the valley.
The gorge itself is spectacular. Forested slopes climb steeply from the river, with limestone crags, tunnels, and the narrow gap known as Turnu Rosu, the Red Tower Pass, which has been a route between Sibiu and southern Romania since ancient times. Cozia Monastery, a Byzantine-style church of white and red stone built in 1388 under the Wallachian prince Mircea the Elder, stands on the river bank and holds his tomb. The hills hold bears, wolves and wild boar, and a scattering of thermal spa towns, such as Calimanesti and Caciulata, use the mineral springs.
For motorcyclists, the valley road, DN7, is a mixed blessing. It is a major route between Bucharest and Sibiu, and it is crowded with heavy lorries, slow vehicles and impatient overtakers, so the gorge section demands care and patience. The road is generally well surfaced, with sweeping bends and good views, but accidents are frequent. Choose a weekday morning if you can, avoid Friday evenings and Sunday afternoons, and take care in the tunnels, which can be damp. Quieter side roads climb into the hills, and the Transfagarasan, one of Europe's best-known mountain roads, is an easy detour from the same corner of Romania. Fog and cold nights are common in autumn, and snow in winter.
Brezoi, with nearly seven thousand people, is the largest nearby town and has fuel, shops and food, and Ramnicu Valcea, to the south, is bigger still. Romanian roadside stalls sell honey, cheese and forest fruits in summer, and a hot corn porridge with cheese and sour cream is a typical lunch. Note that the site names are sometimes marked only by small signs, so a map is useful.