Not many convents invite you to walk up into the roof, but the Convento de las Claras in Salamanca does. It was founded in the thirteenth century as a house of Poor Clares, the order of nuns following Saint Francis, and over the centuries it was altered and rebuilt, so that a visitor now finds a mixture of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque features. The great attraction is a walkway built in the restoration that takes you up beside the timber roof of the church, so that you stand close to carved wooden coffers and a roof structure that would normally be invisible from below. It also gives a view across the rooftops of the old quarter.
The church walls preserve patches of medieval wall painting, found under later layers, and the collection includes sculptures, textiles and sacred objects from the convent. As with all the religious buildings of Salamanca, access varies, and the convent now functions as a museum, with fixed opening hours, so it is worth checking before you set out. The surrounding streets are narrow and pleasant, and a short walk takes you to the cathedral square or down toward the river.
From the convent, the road south leads in less than an hour to the beginnings of the Sierra de Béjar and the Sierra de Francia, a landscape of chestnut forest, stone and timber villages, and mountain passes that give a welcome change from the plateau. The roads wind upward in a series of bends, with views of green valleys, and the temperature drops noticeably. Snow can lie in the higher spots into spring, and the roads can be icy in winter. In summer, afternoon thunderstorms build over the sierra and are best avoided.
The city's fuel stations are many, with Santa Marta de Tormes and Carbajosa de la Sagrada offering plenty more. The old streets are mostly restricted, and motorcycles can use some of the parking areas on the periphery. Try the local pastries sold by nuns at some convents, if you find the little turntable at the door; the sweets are modest and good. The air is dry and bright, and the sound of the bells marks the hours. Salamanca is a city that rewards a second visit, and this convent is a fine reason for one.