In 1592 King Philip II gave permission for an Irish college to be set up in Salamanca, and the reason says a lot about the age. In Ireland, Catholics were barred from higher education under the Protestant crown of Elizabeth I, and the young men who wanted to become priests had to leave the country to train. Salamanca, with its great university, was a natural destination, and for centuries Irish students studied here and returned home, often at great risk, to serve their communities. The college buildings, set around a pretty courtyard in the Renaissance style, were in later times used by the Irish church, and many of the students became bishops and scholars.
The connection between Ireland and Spain is older than most people realise. After the defeat of the Irish lords at Kinsale in 1601, many of the exiles settled in Spanish cities, and Irish names such as O'Donnell and Lacy appear in Spanish military and political history. The college in Salamanca is one of the few visible traces of that relationship, and the stone coats of arms and inscriptions give it a quiet gravity. The building has had various uses over the centuries, and access today depends on the arrangements of the institution that uses it, so it is best to treat it as a place to look at from the outside, and to ask nearby if a visit is possible.
The streets nearby run toward the river and the old Roman bridge, where a pleasant path along the Tormes gives a fine walk. Motorcycles can be parked in marked areas near the edge of the old city, and the roads around are generally calm. Salamanca's drivers are tolerant, but pedestrians have the right of way in the narrow lanes, and one-way systems can confuse a first-time visitor.
Beyond the city, the high plateau of Castile and León offers long, easy riding. The roads are straight and open, the villages are small and made of stone and adobe, and the horizon is huge. Fuel is plentiful in the city and the suburbs, including Santa Marta de Tormes and Carbajosa de la Sagrada, and bars serve cheap and hearty meals. A glass of wine from the Ribera del Duero, a plate of cured ham and a quiet table are as Spanish as it gets. In the evening, the sandstone glows and a gentle breeze comes in from the river.