Colebrook sits at the top of New Hampshire, where the Connecticut River is a modest stream and the border with Canada is a short ride away. It is a small town, with fewer than two thousand people, in a landscape of dark spruce, wide valleys and a feeling of space that southern New England has mostly lost. The Great North Woods, as the region is called, run from here to the Maine line, with more moose than traffic lights, and Colebrook is the sort of place where the diner does a quiet trade in logging crews and the odd rider on a long loop.
East of town, Route 26 climbs to Dixville Notch, a narrow, steep-sided pass with a dramatic cliff face and a once-grand hotel, the Balsams. The tiny hamlet of Dixville Notch has made a name for itself by casting the first votes in the United States in presidential elections, opening its polls at midnight and finishing within minutes, a tradition that dates from the 1960s. The road through the notch is twisty, with real elevation change, and the autumn colors against dark granite are some of the best in the region.
North of Colebrook, Route 3 follows the Connecticut River toward Pittsburg and the lakes, a long, quiet run through forest where moose are a genuine danger at dusk, especially in the stretch known locally as Moose Alley. These animals are enormous, with dark coats that vanish into the night, and a collision with one is serious, so slow down at dawn and dusk and keep your eyes on the verges. Services are sparse beyond Colebrook, so fuel here is wise.
The town has a few stations, a supermarket, a handful of restaurants and some small inns, but nothing beyond. The best season is mid-September to mid-October, when the maples blaze and the air is crisp, but late June has long evenings and light traffic. Winter is brutal, with deep snow and cold that make riding impossible. Across the border, the Quebec town of Coaticook is the nearest big settlement, with a notable covered bridge and a gorge, and the crossing needs a passport and sensible timing.