The Col des Montets is the quiet pass between Chamonix and Switzerland, and it is easy to underestimate. At about 1,460 metres, it is not high by Alpine standards, and the road climbs gently through larch and spruce from the Chamonix valley, but it lies in one of the most dramatic situations in the Alps, with the Aiguilles Rouges on one side and the Mont Blanc massif on the other. The glaciers of Argentière and Tour hang above the road, and on a clear day the views from the roadside are astonishing.
The pass lies in the Aiguilles Rouges nature reserve, a high, rocky area of lakes, peaks, and alpine meadows that is home to ibex, chamois, marmots, and golden eagles. Lac Blanc, a famous high lake with a view of Mont Blanc, lies on the slopes above, reached by a long walk or a lift. The hamlet of Vallorcine, on the Swiss side of the watershed, has chalets with stone roofs and a small station on the narrow-gauge railway that links Chamonix with Martigny, an excellent train ride in its own right.
The ride is easy and pleasant, with flowing bends, good tarmac, and generous views. The gradient is gentle, and the traffic is steady, with tourists, lorries, and locals. From the top, the road drops through Vallorcine toward the Swiss border, where it joins the road over the Col de la Forclaz to Martigny. The pass is generally open throughout the year, though snow and ice can occur in winter, and the road is regularly cleared. Early morning is best for clear views, as clouds often gather around the peaks later in the day.
Fuel is in Chamonix, about ten kilometres to the south-west, and in Martigny-Combe and Martigny to the north-east on the Swiss side. There is little at the pass itself, apart from a few cafes and viewpoints. The best time is June to September, when the weather is generally clearer, and the late-summer light on the glaciers is wonderful. If you cross into Switzerland, remember that a motorway vignette is needed for the Swiss motorways, though the mountain road does not require it. Keep a spare layer handy, because the air is cool and the wind can be sharp.