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Col des Aravis

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The Col des Aravis, at 1,486 metres, joins the Arve and Thônes valleys across the Aravis range, and it is one of the most scenic of the middle-height passes in the northern French Alps. The view from the pass looks across to the Mont Blanc massif, dominating the skyline on a clear day, with the white dome and glaciers above dark forests, and in front of it stretch the green pastures of the Aravis. A handful of chalets and a small café stand near the summit, and several farms sell cheese directly from their barns.

La Clusaz, a village of 2,200 permanent residents on the Thônes side, is a ski resort with old stone and wooden buildings, restaurants and shops, and it is the nearest place for fuel and a proper meal. Saint-Jean-de-Sixt, a small village a few kilometres below, is more modest. This is the country of Reblochon, a soft washed-rind cheese with a long history, said to have been made by farmers who withheld part of the milk from the landlord's count and skimmed the rich second milking afterwards, which is the origin of the name. It is the main ingredient of tartiflette, with potatoes, bacon and onions, which is hard to beat after a cold ride.

The climb is easy by Alpine standards, with an even gradient and a broad road, and long stretches of gentle bends through meadows and forest. On the descent towards Flumet, the views open towards the Beaufortain, with rows of peaks to the south. The surface is generally good, and traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, with campervans and cyclists as well as bikes. Early morning is best, when the light is soft and the cows are out on the high pastures, with bells ringing.

Snow can close the pass in winter, though it is usually kept open, and chains or winter tyres may be required, so check local conditions. Summer brings hay-making and flowers, with meadows full of gentians, orchids and buttercups in June. The climate is cooler and wetter than the nearby lakes, and fog can come down quickly. Keep a layer in the pannier and drink water, and take your time over the descent.

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