On the map the Pilat looks like a small bump south of Saint-Étienne, but on the ground it is a proper mountain massif, with a high ridge, deep forests and views down into the Rhône valley. The Col de l'Oeillon sits at around thirteen hundred metres, on the road that climbs from Pélussin up toward the main crest, and it is one of the best-known climbs for riders in the Lyon region. The highest point in the range, the Crêt de la Perdrix, is a short walk away at about fourteen hundred and thirty metres.
The road up is the draw. From Pélussin, it climbs steadily in a long series of bends, with hairpins and open corners in a good rhythm, through chestnuts and then beech and fir forest, finally breaking out onto the crest with long views east over the Rhône valley and, in clear conditions, to the Alps. The tarmac is usually good, traffic is light on weekdays, and the gradient stays reasonable. On sunny weekends, expect cyclists and other motorcycles, which makes it sociable but demands attention on the tighter bends.
The Pilat is a regional nature park, and the ridge has an Alpine feel: cool air, wet grass, wildflowers in June, fog on autumn mornings. At the foot of the slopes, on the Rhône side, steep terraces grow the grapes of Condrieu and Saint-Joseph, two of the best-known wines of the northern Rhône, so there is a nice contrast between the vines below and the forest above. A pause at the top gives you time to take in how high you have climbed from the river.
Fuel is not available on the col. Pélussin has about three and a half thousand residents and basic services, but do not count on it open late or on a Sunday, and Maclas is smaller still. Saint-Chamond, about thirteen kilometres away, is the largest town nearby with full services. Bring an extra layer even in summer, because the ridge is breezy and the wind can be cold, and in winter snow can close the upper road for days at a time.