Corsica's west coast road north of Porto is a long conversation between rock and sea, and the Col de la Croix is a small word in it. At just 269 metres, it is hardly a mountain pass by Pyrenean standards, but on this island height means little. The D81 climbs from the shoreline, winds along a wall of red-brown rock, and crosses a low saddle with a view out to the gulf, before dropping again. It is a place to ease off the throttle and look around, and perhaps put a foot down to catch the light on the water.
The surrounding landscape is the wild Corsican coast at its best. The maquis, a thick tangle of cistus, myrtle, strawberry tree and wild herbs, covers the hillsides, and in spring the air is heavy with its scent. Below, the sea is a hard, clear blue, and tiny coves are cut into the cliffs, reachable only by boat or on foot. A short way to the south lies the headland of Scandola, a nature reserve of volcanic rock accessible only from the sea. Nearby, the fishing hamlet of Girolata has no road, and visitors reach it by boat or on a long walk down a mule path.
The road itself is a good one for riders who like to take their time. It is narrow, with frequent tight bends, short straights and the occasional hairpin, and there are no barriers on parts of the edge. Surface quality is variable, with patches of gravel and broken edges, and rock falls are possible after heavy rain. Pigs, goats, cows and sometimes horses wander across the road, particularly at the quiet times of day, and they have right of way in practice. Early morning is the best time, with cool air and light traffic, while in July and August the coaches and campers make progress slow. Spring, with flowers in the maquis, and early autumn, with warm sea and calm weather, are the most pleasant seasons.
There are no services at the col. The nearest big town is Calvi, about twenty-six kilometres away, with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and its old citadel is worth seeing if you have time. Porto, in the other direction, has limited services. Make sure you start with a full tank, carry water, and allow a lot more time than the distances suggest, since Corsican roads are never fast.