The Aiguilles de Bavella are the teeth of southern Corsica, a ridge of jagged granite needles that rise above the pass like the spines of some enormous stone creature. The Col de Bavella, at 1,218 metres, lies in their shadow, a saddle of dark pine forest and boulders where the road from Zonza crosses the range on its way to the east coast. A small chapel stands at the pass, with a statue of the Madonna of the Snows, and in the early morning light, with mist in the valleys, the sight is almost unreal.
The road, the D268, is one of the island's finest. From Zonza, it climbs through chestnut and pine woods in a series of tight bends, with the needles growing larger ahead, and the surface is generally good but narrow, with few barriers. Beyond the col it winds down toward the east coast and Solenzara, through forests of Corsican laricio pine, which can grow to forty metres and are among the finest in the Mediterranean. Cows, pigs and even mouflon, the wild mountain sheep, wander across the road, and you must be prepared to stop for them. The road is slow, and a good rider will keep well within limits and enjoy it.
The Bavella is high enough for serious weather. Thunderstorms build on summer afternoons, fog can drop onto the pass in minutes, and snow can close the road in winter. It is cold in the early morning even in summer, so a warm layer is sensible. The best time to come is late spring, when wildflowers cover the maquis, or early autumn, when the heat has eased and the tourists have gone. At the pass, a few small restaurants and a snack bar sell hot drinks, sandwiches and Corsican charcuterie, and the view from the terrace is worth lingering over.
The surrounding forest, part of the regional nature park, is also a hiking centre, and a section of the long-distance GR20 trail, the famous route across the island, passes through the south. A short drive from Zonza, the Piscia di Gallo waterfall tumbles down a granite slope, a popular spot for walkers.
For fuel, do not rely on the villages. Porto-Vecchio, about twenty-three kilometres away, is the main town of the south with stations and supermarkets, and Solenzara on the east coast also has services. Fill up before you head up, and allow plenty of time.