The Col d'Izoard, at 2,360 metres, is one of the great passes of the French Alps, on the road between Briançon and the Queyras, and the south side is the part riders remember. A few kilometres below the summit the road passes through the Casse Déserte, a startling field of orange and grey scree and rock pinnacles, eroded into odd shapes, which looks more like the surface of another planet than the Alps. In front of it stands a monument to the cyclists Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet, who both won here in the Tour de France, and the Tour has crossed the pass many times.
The north side, from Briançon, begins in the Guisane and Cerveyrette valleys, among larch forests and meadows, and climbs through the hamlet of Cervières before reaching the summit by a series of wide, easy bends. The south side drops through Arvieux into the Guil valley, with views over the Queyras, a region known for its sunny weather, its old wooden farmhouses and the fortified village of Mont-Dauphin below. Briançon, a town of about eleven thousand, is the highest city in France at some 1,326 metres, with Vauban's fortifications dominating the old town, a UNESCO site, and plenty of fuel and restaurants.
Riding it is a delight. The surface is generally excellent, the gradients are moderate, and the corners are open and flowing, which lets you relax and look at the scenery. In midsummer, traffic builds with cyclists, motorcyclists and campervans, and the best time is early morning or late afternoon, when the light is long and low on the rocks. At the top there is a small refuge-like café and a viewing table with a panorama of the surrounding peaks, though services are limited, so do not count on fuel.
Snow closes the pass from about November until late May or June, depending on the year, and the local authority publishes opening dates, so check before you set off. Even in July, the summit can be cold and windy, and sudden thunderstorms and hail are possible in the afternoon. A windproof layer and warm gloves are sensible, and bring water, as the south side is hot and dry in summer.