The hills around Marsella, in Risaralda, are steep enough that you wonder how anyone harvests coffee on them at all, and the answer is by hand, bean by bean, on slopes where the pickers lean into the hillside. This is the heart of Colombia's coffee region, the Eje Cafetero, and the cultural landscape of coffee growing here was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2011. The listing covers farms, towns and the traditions of a culture built around a crop that has shaped the country's history and identity.
The coffee farms, or fincas, are typically small, family-run and planted with coffee bushes shaded by banana plants, guadua bamboo and other trees. The towns, founded by settlers from Antioquia in the nineteenth century, have colourful houses with wooden balconies, central squares with churches and cafés where farmers gather. Marsella, seven kilometres away, is a charming example, with a botanical garden and a particularly beautiful cemetery set on a hillside.
The landscape is green, lush and spectacular, with mountains, valleys and rivers. The climate is mild, with two rainy seasons a year, roughly from April to May and from October to November. Rain often comes in heavy afternoon showers, and roads can be affected by landslides. The altitude, typically between 1,000 and 2,000 metres, keeps temperatures pleasant.
Riding in the coffee region is wonderful but demanding. Roads are steep and winding, with tight hairpins, narrow sections and occasional unpaved stretches. Traffic includes buses, trucks and the famous Willys jeeps, which are used to transport coffee and people. Be prepared for sudden rain, mud on the road and slow-moving vehicles. The scenery is worth it: every bend reveals new views of coffee plantations, forests and mountains.
Pereira, twelve kilometres away, is a large city with all services, and Marsella has fuel and shops. Coffee is, of course, everywhere, and many fincas offer tours explaining the process from bean to cup. The hot springs of Santa Rosa de Cabal, near Pereira, are a great place to relax after a day's ride. Try bandeja paisa, a huge plate of beans, rice, meat, egg, plantain and arepa, if you are really hungry.