Coffee Bay gets its name from a shipwreck, or so the story goes. In the nineteenth century, a vessel carrying coffee beans is said to have gone down off this coast, and the beans washed ashore and sprouted on the beach, giving the place its name. Whatever the truth, the village is a small, laid-back settlement on the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape, in the heart of the Xhosa homeland, with a crescent of sand, green hills and round thatched huts dotted over the slopes.
The coast is rugged and beautiful. A short distance away stands the Hole in the Wall, a huge rock arch in an island of dolerite, pierced by the sea, which the Xhosa call Izingolweni, the place of thunder, because of the noise the waves make as they rush through. Beaches run in long, empty strips, rivers meet the ocean at lagoons, and the hills behind are covered in grass and patches of forest. Hikers walk the coast from village to village, staying in simple lodges, and surfers come for the waves.
The ride in from the main road is a lesson in rural South Africa. After leaving the national road near Mthatha, the route winds over steep green hills on a road that is tarred but often scarred with potholes, with goats, cows and children on the carriageway and villages where people wave as you pass. Take it slowly, never ride at night, and watch for animals around blind bends. The mist rolls in from the sea in the mornings, and summer rain can make the road slick, so choose a dry day if you can.
Mthatha, the nearest large town and the place to stock up on fuel and supplies, is some way inland, and there is no reliable fuel in the village, so arrive with a full tank. The village has a couple of backpacker lodges and a few small shops, and a local cook will usually be glad to prepare fresh fish or a pot of stew if you ask in advance. The cultural life is lively, with Xhosa people in beaded costumes at weekends, and respect for local customs, such as asking before taking photographs, goes a long way. The night sky is dazzling.