Codru is an old Romanian word for a deep forest, and the Codrul Secular Șinca, the ancient forest of Șinca, is exactly that: a stand of old-growth beech and fir on the northern slopes of the Făgăraș mountains in Brașov county, where trees have grown, died and fallen for centuries without being cut. It is part of the UNESCO listing of the ancient and primeval beech forests of Europe, a chain of protected forests across many countries that together tell the story of how beech spread across the continent after the last ice age. Walking among trees that are hundreds of years old, with fallen trunks covered in moss and fungi and the canopy closing high above, is a humbling experience.
Nearby, at Șinca Veche, is one of the most mysterious places in Romania: a temple carved into the sandstone of a hill, with chambers, niches and carved symbols, whose origins are unknown and the subject of much speculation. It is now a small Orthodox monastery, and visitors come for its atmosphere and the legends surrounding it. The Făgăraș mountains, rising to the south, are the highest in Romania, and the famous Transfăgărășan road crosses them further west.
The riding in this area is good. The main road between Brașov and Făgăraș runs along the foot of the mountains, with long curves and views of the peaks, though it can be busy with trucks. Side roads into the villages and the foothills, toward Șinca Nouă and Poiana Mărului, are quieter and more scenic, with meadows, forests and haystacks. The road from Zărnești to Bran and the Rucăr-Bran pass, with views of the Piatra Craiului and Bucegi mountains, is one of the most beautiful in Romania. Watch for horse carts, sheep and dogs, and beware of bears, which are common in the forests of this region.
Zărnești, about seventeen kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and it is the gateway to the Piatra Craiului national park. Făgăraș, to the west, has a large medieval citadel. Local food includes hearty soups, grilled meats, and cheeses from the mountain shepherds, often wrapped in fir bark, which gives them a distinctive flavour. Try papanași, fried doughnuts with sour cream and jam.