Clarens is the pretty one of the eastern Free State, a village of sandstone cottages, art galleries and tree-lined squares that sits at the foot of the Maluti mountains, with the cliffs of Golden Gate Highlands National Park on its doorstep. It was founded in 1912 and named after the Swiss town where the former Boer president Paul Kruger died in exile in 1904, a bit of Alpine nostalgia that suits the cool, bright air. Today it is a weekend retreat for people from Johannesburg and a handy base for riders, and the central square fills with tables on any sunny day.
The ride is the main draw. The road from Bethlehem runs west to east along the base of the Maluti range, through rolling farmland of maize and sunflowers, with the sandstone cliffs gradually closing in. Past Clarens, the road to Golden Gate climbs through a valley of amber and ochre rock, with towers and cliffs glowing at sunset, and the surface is mostly good tarmac with gentle, flowing bends. The weather can change quickly: afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, and in winter frost and snow sometimes dust the peaks. Early morning and late afternoon bring the best light and the fewest cars.
The area has a long and layered past. San hunter-gatherers lived in the caves and shelters of the sandstone for thousands of years and left rock paintings that can still be seen in places. Later, Sotho and Boer farming communities moved in, and the region saw heavy fighting in the Anglo-Boer War, with campaigns fought across these hills. Dinosaur fossils have been found in the Clarens formation, a layer of sandstone that gave the town its geological claim to fame.
Nature is quiet and high. Black wildebeest, eland, zebra and springbok graze in the park, and bearded vultures and black eagles ride the updrafts above the cliffs. In late summer the grassland is a rich green, and in autumn it turns gold and rust, with the air smelling of dry grass and wood smoke. The village is also known for its small brewery and for its cafes, where a slice of cake and a strong coffee are an easy way to spend an hour.
Fuel is available in the village. Bring a jacket, even in summer, and book accommodation ahead on long weekends.