The old town of Quito was one of the first places to be listed by UNESCO, in 1978, alongside Kraków, and it is easy to see why. The historic centre is the largest and best preserved in Latin America, a tight grid of steep streets, colonial squares and church domes laid across the slopes below the Panecillo hill. The Spanish founded the city in 1534 on top of an Inca settlement, and over the next two centuries it became a centre of religious art, the so-called Quito School, in which indigenous and European traditions mixed in painting and sculpture.
The best-known building is the Church of La Compañía, the Jesuit church, whose interior is covered in gold leaf from floor to ceiling, so thickly that it can feel overwhelming. Nearby, the huge San Francisco church and convent stand beside a broad plaza, and the Plaza Grande, the main square, holds the cathedral and the presidential palace. Above the old town the Panecillo hill carries a winged statue of the Virgin, and the view across the red-tiled roofs to the volcanoes is the thing to take in on a clear morning.
Riding in the old town is not recommended. The streets are narrow and steep, paved in cobble, with one-way systems, heavy bus traffic and strict restrictions in the historic centre. Park the bike at a secure garage or hotel on the edge and explore on foot, with a careful eye on your belongings, as petty theft happens in crowded areas. Sundays are calmer, with some streets closed to cars. The thin air makes the steep climbs tiring, so take them slowly.
Food stops are easy. Markets and small restaurants serve a hearty lunch of soup, rice and meat for a few dollars, and the historic cafés around the plazas serve strong coffee and sweet pastries. Ecuador uses the US dollar, so cash is simple to handle. For fuel, there are stations on the main avenues surrounding the old town. When the bells ring from the churches at noon and the light turns warm on the white walls, it is easy to see why people fall for this place.