Luxembourg City is built on a rocky plateau above the deep, green valleys of the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers, and for centuries it was one of the most powerful fortresses in Europe, nicknamed the Gibraltar of the North. Spanish, French, Austrian and Prussian armies all held it, and each added to its walls, bastions and tunnels. In 1867, after an international treaty, most of the fortifications were dismantled, but enough remains to make the old quarters and fortifications a UNESCO World Heritage site, inscribed in 1994.
The most remarkable remains are the casemates, a network of tunnels carved into the rock. The Bock casemates, on the promontory where the city's first castle stood in the tenth century, can be visited, and the views from them over the valley and the suburb of Grund are superb. The Chemin de la Corniche, a promenade along the old ramparts, has been called the most beautiful balcony in Europe. The old town, with the grand ducal palace, the cathedral and the narrow streets, is compact and easy to walk.
Luxembourg is a small country with a big role. It is a founding member of the European Union and home to many of its institutions, as well as a major financial centre. The Kirchberg plateau, across the valley, is home to the European Court of Justice and a cluster of modern office towers. Luxembourgish, French and German are all official languages, and most people speak all three, as well as English.
Riding in Luxembourg City is slow, with heavy traffic and lots of one-way streets, so park and walk. But the country is a joy for riders. The Ardennes in the north, around Clervaux and Vianden, have twisting roads through forest and over hills, with castles at every turn. The Moselle valley, in the east, is lined with vineyards, and the road along the river is scenic. Luxembourg is also famous for its cheap fuel, and there are long lines of cars at the stations near the borders.
Local food includes judd mat gaardebounen, smoked pork with broad beans. Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons.