Cingle means a cliff in Valencian, and the Cingle dels Tolls del Puntal is one of the rocky bands that cut across the hills of northern Castellón, in the Maestrat region. The shelters in these cliffs hold paintings of the Levantine rock art tradition, red figures of archers, goats and deer, protected by UNESCO as part of the Mediterranean Basin group. The Valltorta gorge nearby is one of the richest concentrations of this art, and there is a museum in the village of Tírig that explains the painted shelters. The shelters themselves are fragile and often restricted.
Albocàsser, the nearest village, lies in a farming basin of almond, olive and carob trees, with stone farmhouses scattered across it and a ring of sharp, grey-white hills. Cuevas de Vinromà and Catí are small, old and quiet, and Catí is known for its goat's cheese, which is soft, tangy and a good reason to stop at a local shop. The country smells of pine resin and wild herbs after rain, and in spring the hillsides are bright with yellow broom.
For a rider the Maestrat is a find. Narrow roads wind among terraces and rocky outcrops, with a pleasing mix of fast curves and tight corners, steep gradients and sudden views to the Mediterranean on a clear day. The traffic is light, and the villages rarely seem to have more than a few people in the street. Surfaces vary, with patches of rough tarmac and the occasional stray goat or sheep, and in summer the heat on the plateau is fierce. Early morning is the best time, with cool air and long shadows.
Fuel is available in larger towns, and the small villages here do not all have petrol stations, so it is wise to fill up in a bigger town before heading into the hills. Albocàsser has several bars for coffee and the local almond cakes, and Catí has a few restaurants serving lamb and local cheese. The best times of year are spring, when the wildflowers are out, and autumn, when the heat has eased. In winter the hills can be misty and cold, with an occasional dusting of snow.