Rock art is a matter of light. A painting that is invisible at noon can appear at eight in the morning, when the sun rakes across the cliff and the faint orange line of a figure throws a shadow of a fraction of a millimetre. The Cingle de la Mola Remigia faces a direction that gives good morning light on some sections and good afternoon light on others, and a photographer or a patient visitor will learn to follow the shadows along the cliff as the day moves.
The ninth shelter along the cingle is one among many, and it has its own character, which depends on how the overhang catches the sun. Anyone who has stood in front of rock art for long enough knows that the first minute is disappointing. The eyes need time, and then, gradually, the shapes resolve: a bow, the curve of a back, the legs of a running animal. Some people use a torch held at a low angle, but in many protected sites this is forbidden, so ask first.
Benassal, five kilometres from the shelter, is the base. The road from the village to the cliffs crosses a high plateau with a good surface and mostly easy bends, and in the early morning, with mist in the hollows and the first sunlight on the stone walls, it is a lovely ride. Rainy days are best avoided, as the limestone can be slippery and the paths muddy. Wear boots and carry water. A small notebook helps: sketching what you think you can see, then comparing it with what a second visitor sees, is the best way to learn how subjective the whole business of reading these walls can be.
Fuel is at Alcalà de Xivert, thirty-three kilometres off, or at Villafranca del Cid, a smaller place. The shelters are protected and visits are managed, so ask at Benassal or at the museum in Tírig before you set out, and never touch the paintings.