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Cingle de l'Ermità -Abric V

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Ermità means hermit, and a cingle is a cliff band, so the name tells you what you are looking for: a ledge of rock above a hermitage. The fifth shelter in this group lies beyond Albocàsser, in the Alt Maestrat of northern Castellón, where the limestone has been split into gorges and overhangs. The paintings here belong to the Levantine tradition that UNESCO listed in 1998, red figures drawn thousands of years ago by people who hunted and gathered in these hills before farming arrived.

It helps to understand the geography. This part of the Maestrat is a high, dry plateau of olives, almonds and cereal fields, divided by narrow barrancs and punctuated by small stone villages. The coast is barely thirty kilometres away, but the land feels remote, and the sea breeze brings nothing but a faint salt tang. Albocàsser itself is a quiet village of around a thousand and a half residents, and a visit gives you a sense of how life goes on in rural Valencian Spain, with a bar full of old men, a church on the hill and a bakery that sells out by eleven.

The riding here is a pure pleasure for anyone who prefers quiet. The roads are narrow, well-surfaced and mostly empty, running between dry-stone walls and over small rises that give a view down toward the plain. The bends are friendly rather than dramatic, which suits the landscape, and in spring the roadside is bright with poppies and broom. In summer, start early. By noon the heat in these valleys is serious.

Nobody makes a fuss of the shelters, and that is one of the pleasures. Information boards exist in some places, but many of the paintings are known mainly to local guides and to the people who have walked these paths for years. Respect the rock and keep your hands off it.

Fuel is a problem to solve before you arrive. Alcalà de Xivert is the nearest sizeable town, and it is nearly twenty kilometres away, so fill up there or on the coast. Albocàsser has a bar for coffee and a simple meal.

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