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Cingle de l'Ermità -Abric IV

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Cingle means a band of cliff in Valencian, and the Cingle de l'Ermità is exactly that: a rim of pale limestone above a ravine in the dry highlands around Albocàsser, with a hermitage somewhere in its name and its history. The shelter here, Abric IV, is one of a cluster along the cliff, painted in the Levantine style that UNESCO protects as the Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. These were made by hunting peoples who used the overhangs as a canvas, and the paintings are small and mostly red.

Cliffs like this are good places for wildlife. Griffon vultures are common in the Maestrat and ride the thermals along the rim in the middle of the day, and you may spot smaller raptors, ravens and, if you are lucky, a Spanish ibex higher in the hills. The cliff itself is warm to the touch in the afternoon sun, and the ground below is scented with thyme, rosemary and juniper. In late spring wild flowers fill the gaps in the rock.

The nearest village is Albocàsser, under six kilometres away and with fewer than fourteen hundred people. Catí, a little farther, has its Gothic stone houses and a long reputation for goat's cheese, and you should try some if a shop is open.

The ride in is narrow and quiet. Bends are tight, sometimes blind, with patchy surfaces and loose gravel where tractors cross. In the middle of the day, the heat reflects off the limestone, so ride early or late, and bring water. Spring and autumn are lovely, with clear air and long views toward the sea on good days. Mist can fill the ravines in winter and make the road greasy for the first hours.

Read it in a ride

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