On the island of Chiloé, in southern Chile, the churches are made of wood, and the whole archipelago has been built around that fact. Vilupulli is one of the sixteen churches that UNESCO lists as an exceptional example of a local tradition, combining European ideas with the shipbuilding skills of Chilote carpenters. Jesuit missionaries arrived in the seventeenth century and planned a circuit of chapels, and after they were expelled the communities kept them going, with local families caring for the buildings and holding festivals. The result is a string of timber churches with plank walls, shingled towers and painted interiors, each in a fishing village or on a quiet inlet.
The church stands close to Chonchi, a town of about 12,000 people on the eastern coast of the main island, known for its steep streets and its wooden houses. The surrounding country is green and damp: small farms, hedgerows, patches of native forest and the grey Pacific light. Expect rain, even in summer, and wind off the sea. Weather changes within an hour, and the roads are slick, so keep your speed down and watch for livestock.
Chiloé is reached by ferry across the Chacao Channel from the mainland, and the Panamericana, Route 5, runs down the island's spine. It is a pleasant, rolling road with moderate traffic, a decent surface and glimpses of the sea. Side roads to the churches are narrower and sometimes gravel, so check conditions. Fuel is available in Chonchi and Castro, the island's capital with about 30,000 people, and the smaller villages may not have any, so top up in town.
Food is part of the pleasure. Curanto, a stew of shellfish, meat and potatoes traditionally cooked in a pit with hot stones, is the island's best-known dish, and you will also find fresh salmon, mussels and the large variety of native potatoes that Chiloé is proud of. The islanders have a rich folklore, with tales of sea spirits and ghost ships, and the churches take part in a festive tradition of boats and processions. Take a moment inside if the church is open, where the wooden ceiling often looks like the hull of an upturned boat, and a sense of the craftsmanship becomes clear.